Granada Customs and Opening Hours

Granada has its own rhythm, and understanding it will save you a few surprises: kitchens closed at six in the evening, empty streets at three in the afternoon in August, or a tapa that arrives without you ordering it. Here are the basics for getting around the city like a local. And if you also want to understand what people say to you, have a look at our dictionary of Granada slang.

Mealtimes

In Granada people eat lunch and dinner later than in much of Europe:

• Breakfast. On weekdays, early and quick; later, mid-morning, many people take a break for coffee and toast.
• Lunch. The main meal of the day, roughly between 2 pm and 4 pm.
• Dinner. Lighter, and usually between 9 pm and 11 pm, even later in summer.

Many restaurant kitchens close between lunch and dinner. If you get hungry mid-afternoon, tapas bars are usually your best bet.

The siesta and the shops

The siesta does exist, although not everyone sleeps it. What you will notice is that many small shops close at midday, roughly from two until mid-afternoon, and then reopen until the evening. Department stores and chain shops in the centre usually stay open all day.

On Sundays and public holidays most shops close, although you’ll find some open in the centre and the most touristy areas. Bars, on the other hand, are in full swing. Do your shopping on Saturday.

Tapas

In Granada, in many bars every drink comes with a tapa at no extra cost, and each round usually brings a different one. It’s the most Granada way to eat: standing at the bar, moving from one bar to the next. We explain it in detail in our guide to tapas in Granada.

Tipping and manners

• Tipping. It isn’t compulsory. If you’ve been well looked after, people usually round up the bill or leave a few coins; in restaurants, a small percentage is a nice gesture.
• Greetings. When you walk into a shop, a bar or a lift, say «buenos días» or «buenas tardes», and when you leave, «hasta luego». Among acquaintances, two kisses on the cheek or a handshake.
• Friendliness. Don’t be surprised if people call you «cariño» (love), «guapa» or «quillo»: it’s normal, not over-familiarity. And if someone answers you bluntly, there’s a word for that: malafollá. We explain it in the third instalment of Granada slang.

Hills and heat

The Albayzín and the Sacromonte sit on a hillside, and almost everything is slopes and cobbles. Wear comfortable shoes and take it easy. In summer, especially in July and August, the middle of the day is very hot: go out early, rest at midday as locals do, and head back out from mid-afternoon. Always carry water. There’s more in our guide to Granada weather.

Respecting the neighbours

The Albayzín and the Sacromonte are neighbourhoods where people live, not film sets. Many caves and houses are permanent homes, and sound carries a long way in the narrow streets and between the hillsides. So:

• At night, keep your voice down on the way back from dinner or a zambra, especially on stairways and in alleys.
• Don’t walk into courtyards or take photos of houses or people without permission.
• Put rubbish in the bins, not outside the door.

At the house we work hard to keep on good terms with the neighbours, and we’re very grateful when you help us. There’s more on the neighbourhood in our guide to the Sacromonte.

Tips

• Plan your visits for the morning and leave the afternoon for strolling and tapas.
• Keep a little cash handy for small amounts, although almost everything can be paid by card.
• For any other practical questions, see our Granada travel guide.