Tapas in Granada: How They Work

Granada is one of the few cities in Spain that keeps a custom that surprises almost everyone who arrives: with every drink you get a free tapa. It’s not an occasional courtesy snack, it’s the norm in most bars. So much so that many locals don’t go to a restaurant for dinner, but go from bar to bar having a drink and a tapa.

How it works

• You order a drink and the tapa arrives. A small beer, a glass of wine, a soft drink or a water: each drink comes with its tapa at no extra cost.
• You don’t always get to choose. In many bars the house decides the tapa and it changes throughout the day. In others you can choose from several. If you have an allergy or don’t eat something, say so when you order your drink.
• Each round brings another tapa. The second and third drinks usually come with different tapas, sometimes more and more filling. After three or four rounds, dinner’s done.
• If you want more, order raciones. Full and half portions (raciones and medias raciones) are paid for separately and are meant for sharing. They’re a good option if you’re in a group or want to try something specific from the menu.

Where to go for tapas

There are tapas bars in every neighbourhood, but these areas have plenty of atmosphere and are within walking distance of the house:

• Calle Navas. Next to Plaza del Carmen, right in the centre, a pedestrian street lined with one bar after another.
• Calle Elvira. Very close to Plaza Nueva, with all kinds of bars and a young crowd until late. The surrounding streets also have Moroccan-style tea rooms.
• Plaza Nueva. At the end of the Carrera del Darro, it’s the first place you reach when you walk down from the Sacromonte. There are terraces on the square and bars in the nearby streets.
• Realejo and Campo del Príncipe. The old Jewish quarter has a lovely neighbourhood feel, with terraces on the Campo del Príncipe square.
• Albayzín and Plaza Larga. At the top of the Albayzín, Plaza Larga and the streets around it are perfect for tapas after watching the sunset at the Mirador de San Nicolás.

Times

Granada keeps later hours than other countries:

• At lunchtime, tapas start from roughly half past one and carry on until mid-afternoon.
• In the evening, bars get lively from about nine, and there’s atmosphere on weekdays too.

Many kitchens close between lunch and dinner. There are more details in our Granada travel guide.

Customs

• The bar counter is the best place for tapas. Standing at the bar is the most common way and also the quickest.
• You pay at the end. You usually ask for the bill when you leave, not round by round.
• Go from bar to bar. The usual thing is to have one or two rounds in each place and move on. That way you try more tapas and more atmospheres.
• Tipping isn’t compulsory. If the service was good, people usually leave some small change.
• Order like a local. A «caña» is a small draught beer and a «tinto de verano» is red wine with lemonade. If you want to learn more vocabulary, take a look at our Granada slang.

Tips

• You don’t need to book for tapas, although the best-known bars fill up early. If a bar is packed, try the one next door.
• Try the local dishes. Many tapas are small versions of the regional cooking. We tell you which ones in Granada food.
• Getting home. From Plaza Nueva the C34 runs up the Camino del Sacromonte to 40 metres from the house. If you’re back late, there are taxis and Uber.